Miles driven: 3,677
We have now left the Midwest. Wanting to add some international flair to our cross country trip, we took the shorter Canadian route, crossing at Detroit and then re-entering the US at Niagara Falls. I say international flair, but in reality the 4 hours across Canada involved dead straight motorway, corn fields, and a mediocre lunch on the side of the road in London, Canada. I was actually excited to stop in London – they have a River Thames and a Hyde Park and a few other places named after the real deal back in England. However, it basically resembled the suburbs of Anytown, Anywhere -- less than impressive.
And after hours of squinting at the small kilometer numbers on my speedometer, we arrived at the the threshold of hell, otherwise known as Niagara Falls, Canada. Imagine the worst seaside boardwalk you have ever seen, built along what was once probably one of the most scenic nature spots on earth. Throw in tens of thousands of bloated North Americans with bad haircuts and even worse tattoos. News flash, Canada: Hooters, funnel cake, and the Seventh Wonder of the World don't mix. We high tailed it back to the US, where at least New York has the decency to enclose the falls area into a state park.
Luckily, we spent the prior 5 days in two really cool college towns – Madison, Wisconsin and Ann Arbor, Michigan. Madison has one of the most amazing settings anywhere – a thin strip of land between two beautiful lakes. Throw in some awesome Wisconsin dairy (cheeses and ice creams) and tons of local beers, and life by the lake is good. Ann Arbor doesn't have the same setting, but the town feels more alive. The main drag in town is full of people eating and drinking outside, there is a huge local arts scene, and a life changing deli called Zingerman's. Put the town of Ann Arbor in Madison's setting, and you might just have the most perfect college town on Earth.
Across the board, we had a really positive experience in the Midwest. We ate and drank well almost everywhere, and except for one night in Spearfish, South Dakota, the towns we stayed in were full of charm. Maybe we got lucky, but “fly over country” had a lot more flavor than I expected.
Friday, 30 July 2010
Thursday, 22 July 2010
Minnesota
Miles driven: 2,566
So I'm in Minnesota right now, and it smells like shit. This isn't some deep blog metaphor – it actually does smell like cow shit here. It stings the nostrils, and not in a good way. We had to drive through about 7,000 miles of corn crops to get here, and once we arrived we discovered that there is a distinct lack of good beer. Plus, everyone has that funny Minnesota (MinnesOOOta) accent.
So it would be fine to be a bit depressed after leaving the majestic sights of the Rocky Mountains or the beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota. Except I'm finding myself quite happy here. Lanesboro, where we are staying, has a Main Street, and along it are American flags flying every 20 feet. We met a couple tonight whose son is recovering from losing a leg in Iraq (quite well, I might add – he recently ran the Army 10 Miler in DC, which I on the other hand, have not). Much of the town gathered at the local theatre for a performance tonight, probably just as they do at the high school during football season. People eat beef for dinner, so much so that the local restaurant ran out tonight. There are a lot of giant pickup trucks around. So, it really feels like small town Middle America here – and this is exactly what I came to see.
We've had a good few days leading up to this as well. We lit candle lanterns and climbed through an off-trail section of Wind Cave, South Dakota with a park ranger. We drove through Spearfish Canyon and hiked through the amazing scenery of the Badlands National Park. The stretch of country from the Tetons, Wyoming to the Badlands, South Dakota must be one of the most amazing on Earth. I have a new affection for this part of the world.
Not that these parts don't have their more confounding sides. Read the papers, the poll numbers, and the bumper stickers, and you recognize that this part of the country is not particularly sympathetic to the Middle East – and yet, and I cannot find a way to stress this enough – EVERYONE here drives a massive truck or SUV. And these massive vehicles burn TONS of fuel – which helps keep us dependent on the Middle East for energy. I can't tell you how many times I've watched a Ford F-9000 Super Triton Maxi-Cab truck take 5 attempts to get into a normal parking space...and then one person gets out of it. You would expect this part of the country to lead the charge on sticking the middle finger up to OPEC – and yet, they happily fill up their monster trucks on cheap fuel from a place they detest. It quite simply makes no sense. I would start a debate -- but hell, most of these people are armed and I'm driving a European car and still speak with a slight British inflection. Mum did not raise no fool.
Nonetheless, I am embracing the rural experience. After all, it still represents 97% of the land in America. And there is no doubt that us city folk get a warmer welcome here in the country, than the other way around.
So I'm in Minnesota right now, and it smells like shit. This isn't some deep blog metaphor – it actually does smell like cow shit here. It stings the nostrils, and not in a good way. We had to drive through about 7,000 miles of corn crops to get here, and once we arrived we discovered that there is a distinct lack of good beer. Plus, everyone has that funny Minnesota (MinnesOOOta) accent.
So it would be fine to be a bit depressed after leaving the majestic sights of the Rocky Mountains or the beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota. Except I'm finding myself quite happy here. Lanesboro, where we are staying, has a Main Street, and along it are American flags flying every 20 feet. We met a couple tonight whose son is recovering from losing a leg in Iraq (quite well, I might add – he recently ran the Army 10 Miler in DC, which I on the other hand, have not). Much of the town gathered at the local theatre for a performance tonight, probably just as they do at the high school during football season. People eat beef for dinner, so much so that the local restaurant ran out tonight. There are a lot of giant pickup trucks around. So, it really feels like small town Middle America here – and this is exactly what I came to see.
We've had a good few days leading up to this as well. We lit candle lanterns and climbed through an off-trail section of Wind Cave, South Dakota with a park ranger. We drove through Spearfish Canyon and hiked through the amazing scenery of the Badlands National Park. The stretch of country from the Tetons, Wyoming to the Badlands, South Dakota must be one of the most amazing on Earth. I have a new affection for this part of the world.
Not that these parts don't have their more confounding sides. Read the papers, the poll numbers, and the bumper stickers, and you recognize that this part of the country is not particularly sympathetic to the Middle East – and yet, and I cannot find a way to stress this enough – EVERYONE here drives a massive truck or SUV. And these massive vehicles burn TONS of fuel – which helps keep us dependent on the Middle East for energy. I can't tell you how many times I've watched a Ford F-9000 Super Triton Maxi-Cab truck take 5 attempts to get into a normal parking space...and then one person gets out of it. You would expect this part of the country to lead the charge on sticking the middle finger up to OPEC – and yet, they happily fill up their monster trucks on cheap fuel from a place they detest. It quite simply makes no sense. I would start a debate -- but hell, most of these people are armed and I'm driving a European car and still speak with a slight British inflection. Mum did not raise no fool.
Nonetheless, I am embracing the rural experience. After all, it still represents 97% of the land in America. And there is no doubt that us city folk get a warmer welcome here in the country, than the other way around.
Friday, 16 July 2010
Man versus Bison
Miles driven: 1,521
I am writing this from the Herbert Hoover suite at the Occidental Hotel in Buffalo, Wyoming. President Hoover actually stayed in our room in 1932, during his presidency. In fact, the tub is the same, so Andrea and I are going to soak our bums tonight where a sitting president once did. Or perhaps I will just shower.
It's been quite a week. After leaving Idaho we crossed into Wyoming and spent a couple of nights in Jackson Hole. Our town, Teton Village, was a quiet resort and had its own private entrance into Grand Teton National Park -- which in the summer is a wonderful thing. Despite the reviews of crowds in the parks during the summer, we were often the only people at the gate. We took a 5 mile hike up a glacier canyon, took pictures from the vantage point that made Ansel Adams famous, and enjoyed some perfect 70 degree top down days. We also encountered a herd of bison, as my blog title alludes to. Which at first seemed perfectly innocent...some bison crossing the road. We were smiling and taking pictures as the first few bison passed near by, as were the other people in their family cars. The problem is that the family cars around us resembled armored personnel carriers, whereas my Audi with the top down resembled lunch. The bison started grunting and surrounding the “weakling” vehicle. In a Mario Andretti-esque driving manuever, I reversed the Audi, circled behind a minivan for shelter, and quickly hit the “top up” button. Surrounded by 3 whole layers of fabric, we bravely rode out the onslaught of bison, unscathed (pics on the Picasa website). In retaliation, I ate a bison flank steak that night back in Jackson Hole. It was delicious.
Yellowstone was no less impressive, and the geysers really performed. Of course we saw Old Faithful -- but Castle Geyser, which erupts once per day unpredictably, went off in a spectacular display literally as we walked up. Further along, Beehive Geyser, which erupts roughly every 30 hours, also erupted, firing water and steam 200 feet high. This is a place that just feels primordial – sulfur hangs in the air all over the place, steam vents appear out of nowhere, and water bubbles in ponds all over the park. Then of course you have the Yellowstone Canyon, home to Lower Falls, which is twice the height of Niagara. We hiked down from the canyon rim to the top of it – and to watch that much water fall that far, that fast, is just inspiring. I could have watched it all day.
I'll end on a food note (always near and dear to my heart) – the streak ended today. Our dinner tonight (bison burger) was served with a bag of Lay's potato chips, and Andrea's appetizer dip came with packaged crackers. So perhaps the food revolution hasn't quite made it to this corner of Wyoming...
I am writing this from the Herbert Hoover suite at the Occidental Hotel in Buffalo, Wyoming. President Hoover actually stayed in our room in 1932, during his presidency. In fact, the tub is the same, so Andrea and I are going to soak our bums tonight where a sitting president once did. Or perhaps I will just shower.
It's been quite a week. After leaving Idaho we crossed into Wyoming and spent a couple of nights in Jackson Hole. Our town, Teton Village, was a quiet resort and had its own private entrance into Grand Teton National Park -- which in the summer is a wonderful thing. Despite the reviews of crowds in the parks during the summer, we were often the only people at the gate. We took a 5 mile hike up a glacier canyon, took pictures from the vantage point that made Ansel Adams famous, and enjoyed some perfect 70 degree top down days. We also encountered a herd of bison, as my blog title alludes to. Which at first seemed perfectly innocent...some bison crossing the road. We were smiling and taking pictures as the first few bison passed near by, as were the other people in their family cars. The problem is that the family cars around us resembled armored personnel carriers, whereas my Audi with the top down resembled lunch. The bison started grunting and surrounding the “weakling” vehicle. In a Mario Andretti-esque driving manuever, I reversed the Audi, circled behind a minivan for shelter, and quickly hit the “top up” button. Surrounded by 3 whole layers of fabric, we bravely rode out the onslaught of bison, unscathed (pics on the Picasa website). In retaliation, I ate a bison flank steak that night back in Jackson Hole. It was delicious.
Yellowstone was no less impressive, and the geysers really performed. Of course we saw Old Faithful -- but Castle Geyser, which erupts once per day unpredictably, went off in a spectacular display literally as we walked up. Further along, Beehive Geyser, which erupts roughly every 30 hours, also erupted, firing water and steam 200 feet high. This is a place that just feels primordial – sulfur hangs in the air all over the place, steam vents appear out of nowhere, and water bubbles in ponds all over the park. Then of course you have the Yellowstone Canyon, home to Lower Falls, which is twice the height of Niagara. We hiked down from the canyon rim to the top of it – and to watch that much water fall that far, that fast, is just inspiring. I could have watched it all day.
I'll end on a food note (always near and dear to my heart) – the streak ended today. Our dinner tonight (bison burger) was served with a bag of Lay's potato chips, and Andrea's appetizer dip came with packaged crackers. So perhaps the food revolution hasn't quite made it to this corner of Wyoming...
Tuesday, 13 July 2010
Food Fight
Miles driven: 999
So a few of you have recommended a book called The Omnivore's Dilemma, and I thought I would give it a go. The gist of the book is that America has a food chain that is mostly untraceable and often based on corn – look at any label and see the amount of high fructose corn syrup, corn starch, citric acid – your Chicken McNuggets are (only slightly) chicken that is fed corn, breaded in corn, and fried in corn oil (plus some petroleum). Beef cows are fed a diet of corn (not a natural food for them) and antibiotics. We are now even breeding salmon that can eat corn. So much food in general is over-processed and over-refined.
I should note that I still have about 100 pages left in the book – but it's not exactly a glowing picture of the American food system. Now Britain doesn't have the best reputation in the culinary scene – but cows there can only be grass fed, and eggs are only free range (it becomes illegal to cage hens in the UK as of next year). There are no preservatives to speak of – I dare you to find a loaf of bread in a London market that doesn't expire tomorrow. Beer is hand pumped from wooden casks that spoil in 3 days once tapped. The cheapest onions, grapes, and strawberries in the grocery store are still organic.
So I've had a fair amount of dread about what I was going to find when I got home. But the simple truth is that I have been absolutely shocked and awed – in a good way. Of course quality food is always available if you have the cash...but even within our meager travel means I have found the following: Hawaii – opah fish in the grocery store, line caught that morning and on ice by 4pm. Los Angeles – a farmer's market selling goat cheese made less than 50 miles away, and $1.29 tacos made with real meat and chicken. Portland – food trucks cooking with fresh ingredients, handmade beer literally on every corner. Walla Walla – a corner bistro serving Washington river wild salmon tartare, grass fed steak frites, and organic wines. Boise, Idaho – BOISE, FREAKING IDAHO, PEOPLE – the corner pub we went to listed their suppliers by name with grass fed beef for burgers, happy outdoor pigs for ribs, hand made Idaho cheeses and organic potatoes. The beer list included how many miles each beer had travelled to get to you in case you care to reduce your carbon footprint. Jackson Hole, Wyoming – another corner pub, and yet the salmon and trout are listed by which river they come from, the bison meat is from a farm down the street, and burger meat is also local and grass fed.
I keep waiting for the big disappointment. We said after Portland that the food scene would be bleak. When Boise amazed us, we said Wyoming was where we where we would be let down on food. But that hasn't happened. Eventually, I know we will be forced to eat at some chain, serving over-processed marginal food -- but so far I am absolutely loving what I see.
So a few of you have recommended a book called The Omnivore's Dilemma, and I thought I would give it a go. The gist of the book is that America has a food chain that is mostly untraceable and often based on corn – look at any label and see the amount of high fructose corn syrup, corn starch, citric acid – your Chicken McNuggets are (only slightly) chicken that is fed corn, breaded in corn, and fried in corn oil (plus some petroleum). Beef cows are fed a diet of corn (not a natural food for them) and antibiotics. We are now even breeding salmon that can eat corn. So much food in general is over-processed and over-refined.
I should note that I still have about 100 pages left in the book – but it's not exactly a glowing picture of the American food system. Now Britain doesn't have the best reputation in the culinary scene – but cows there can only be grass fed, and eggs are only free range (it becomes illegal to cage hens in the UK as of next year). There are no preservatives to speak of – I dare you to find a loaf of bread in a London market that doesn't expire tomorrow. Beer is hand pumped from wooden casks that spoil in 3 days once tapped. The cheapest onions, grapes, and strawberries in the grocery store are still organic.
So I've had a fair amount of dread about what I was going to find when I got home. But the simple truth is that I have been absolutely shocked and awed – in a good way. Of course quality food is always available if you have the cash...but even within our meager travel means I have found the following: Hawaii – opah fish in the grocery store, line caught that morning and on ice by 4pm. Los Angeles – a farmer's market selling goat cheese made less than 50 miles away, and $1.29 tacos made with real meat and chicken. Portland – food trucks cooking with fresh ingredients, handmade beer literally on every corner. Walla Walla – a corner bistro serving Washington river wild salmon tartare, grass fed steak frites, and organic wines. Boise, Idaho – BOISE, FREAKING IDAHO, PEOPLE – the corner pub we went to listed their suppliers by name with grass fed beef for burgers, happy outdoor pigs for ribs, hand made Idaho cheeses and organic potatoes. The beer list included how many miles each beer had travelled to get to you in case you care to reduce your carbon footprint. Jackson Hole, Wyoming – another corner pub, and yet the salmon and trout are listed by which river they come from, the bison meat is from a farm down the street, and burger meat is also local and grass fed.
I keep waiting for the big disappointment. We said after Portland that the food scene would be bleak. When Boise amazed us, we said Wyoming was where we where we would be let down on food. But that hasn't happened. Eventually, I know we will be forced to eat at some chain, serving over-processed marginal food -- but so far I am absolutely loving what I see.
Saturday, 10 July 2010
The Road Trip Begins....
Miles driven: 321
We are underway! After one of the easiest car buying experiences imaginable (“check is in the mail? I trust you, go ahead and take the car now”), we are on the open road.
But not after 3 very cool days in Portland, Oregon. We ate well and drank even better – the brew houses here are just incredible. Take, for instance, Rogue Brewing. You beer drinkers out there probably know Rogue Dead Guy Ale – but at the brewhouse, that beer is buried under about 25 other varieties that are all on tap. We were handed a beer binder when we walked in that described gravity levels and scales of hopiness – it was heavenly. And just as Portland led the country in the microbrewing craze in the 1990's, you can see the next trend already taking shape -- the food trucks, serving inventive local food at good prices. We really enjoyed the vibe of the city overall – there is such an emphasis on local food and drink, every place has outdoor seating, and the people are friendly and laid back.
From Portland, we dropped the top and drove through the beautiful Pacific northwest up to Mount Hood (where they are still skiing this time of year!), and then along the stunning Columbia River Gorge east to Walla Walla, Washington. Walla Walla is a small town that has become a wine epicenter out this way. It's a hot climate so lots of Cabernet Savignon, Merlot, and Syrah. We are not typically Merlot drinkers but the goods out this way are spectacular. Walla Walla itself is excellent – the downtown area (maybe 6 or 7 blocks) has about 15 winery tasting rooms plus some nice spots for food, and tonight we found some live music and the locals dancing the night away. It's exactly what I wanted to find out this way – small town America, full of life, lots of local food and drink, everyone knows everyone. The locals seem to know they have a good thing going, and we've loved it too.
In the morning it's off to the weekend farmers market, and then to Idaho for a couple of days before we make our assault on Yellowstone and Grand Teton Park in Wyoming.
We are underway! After one of the easiest car buying experiences imaginable (“check is in the mail? I trust you, go ahead and take the car now”), we are on the open road.
But not after 3 very cool days in Portland, Oregon. We ate well and drank even better – the brew houses here are just incredible. Take, for instance, Rogue Brewing. You beer drinkers out there probably know Rogue Dead Guy Ale – but at the brewhouse, that beer is buried under about 25 other varieties that are all on tap. We were handed a beer binder when we walked in that described gravity levels and scales of hopiness – it was heavenly. And just as Portland led the country in the microbrewing craze in the 1990's, you can see the next trend already taking shape -- the food trucks, serving inventive local food at good prices. We really enjoyed the vibe of the city overall – there is such an emphasis on local food and drink, every place has outdoor seating, and the people are friendly and laid back.
From Portland, we dropped the top and drove through the beautiful Pacific northwest up to Mount Hood (where they are still skiing this time of year!), and then along the stunning Columbia River Gorge east to Walla Walla, Washington. Walla Walla is a small town that has become a wine epicenter out this way. It's a hot climate so lots of Cabernet Savignon, Merlot, and Syrah. We are not typically Merlot drinkers but the goods out this way are spectacular. Walla Walla itself is excellent – the downtown area (maybe 6 or 7 blocks) has about 15 winery tasting rooms plus some nice spots for food, and tonight we found some live music and the locals dancing the night away. It's exactly what I wanted to find out this way – small town America, full of life, lots of local food and drink, everyone knows everyone. The locals seem to know they have a good thing going, and we've loved it too.
In the morning it's off to the weekend farmers market, and then to Idaho for a couple of days before we make our assault on Yellowstone and Grand Teton Park in Wyoming.
Wednesday, 7 July 2010
California Dreamin'
We've spent the last two weeks in California, and it's been awesome. Lots of good quality time with our siblings – I hadn't seen my sister Ashleigh and her husband Jeff, who live in LA, in 18 months – plus lots of barbeques, sleeping in, and living the California dream (as much of a dream as a bankrupt state can have). We divided our time between Los Angeles (staying with Ash and Jeff), the desert near Edwards Air Force Base (two hours north of LA, staying with John), and then a roadtrip up California Route 1 to Monterey (midweek trip for just the two of us).
A few things I love about California:
1)Predictability. Primarily this comes into play with the weather. During our time in Los Angeles, the daytime high varied wildly between 73 and 74 degrees. Out in the desert where John lives, it was predictably 95 degrees. Along the Monterey coast, it was 68 degrees each day without fail. It never rained. If this state employs even one weatherman, it's gross overkill.
2)The food. I have eaten – I kid you not – three straight days at a place called Tacos Delta. It's a walk up stand near Ashleigh and Jeff's, selling tacos for $1.29 apiece – nothing fancy, just good fresh Mexican food. There is just so much good stuff here – the farmers markets have gleaming produce, the seafood counter here has piles of line-caught California fish, and the local wines and microbrewed beers are just incredible. We have grilled about 10 times in the past two weeks and it has made me very, very happy.
3)The scenery. This state has a little bit of everything -- in LA, we did 2 hikes in the Hollywood hills, and watched seal lions swim along the gorgeous Malibu coast one afternoon. Out near John there are mountains and giant dry lakebeds in the desert, which fill up with about a foot of water each winter. Heading up towards Monterey, we drove through more mountains, lush crops in the valley, and vineyards along the coast. And of course there is the indescribable coastal drive from San Simeon to Monterey. It is simply one of the best in the world – cliffside cruising with mountains on one side and the Pacific on the other, and cove after beautiful cove with teal water crashing below. Just breathtaking.
Tonight we are flying to Portland, Oregon to buy a car and begin the cross country drive. We are excited to be getting on the road, but it's been so good to see everyone out west. A big thanks to Ashleigh, Jeff, and John for hosting us...and to Laura, Matthew, and Dana for flying out for the 4th of July weekend.
A few things I love about California:
1)Predictability. Primarily this comes into play with the weather. During our time in Los Angeles, the daytime high varied wildly between 73 and 74 degrees. Out in the desert where John lives, it was predictably 95 degrees. Along the Monterey coast, it was 68 degrees each day without fail. It never rained. If this state employs even one weatherman, it's gross overkill.
2)The food. I have eaten – I kid you not – three straight days at a place called Tacos Delta. It's a walk up stand near Ashleigh and Jeff's, selling tacos for $1.29 apiece – nothing fancy, just good fresh Mexican food. There is just so much good stuff here – the farmers markets have gleaming produce, the seafood counter here has piles of line-caught California fish, and the local wines and microbrewed beers are just incredible. We have grilled about 10 times in the past two weeks and it has made me very, very happy.
3)The scenery. This state has a little bit of everything -- in LA, we did 2 hikes in the Hollywood hills, and watched seal lions swim along the gorgeous Malibu coast one afternoon. Out near John there are mountains and giant dry lakebeds in the desert, which fill up with about a foot of water each winter. Heading up towards Monterey, we drove through more mountains, lush crops in the valley, and vineyards along the coast. And of course there is the indescribable coastal drive from San Simeon to Monterey. It is simply one of the best in the world – cliffside cruising with mountains on one side and the Pacific on the other, and cove after beautiful cove with teal water crashing below. Just breathtaking.
Tonight we are flying to Portland, Oregon to buy a car and begin the cross country drive. We are excited to be getting on the road, but it's been so good to see everyone out west. A big thanks to Ashleigh, Jeff, and John for hosting us...and to Laura, Matthew, and Dana for flying out for the 4th of July weekend.
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